Thursday 31 May 2012

TYRE PRESSURE

It's a truism to say that bicycles are dependent on air pressure. But that fact was brought home to me today with a vengeance.

On Tuesday I did 30km with the club at an average speed of just over 30 km/hour. However, I was struggling at times, even though there was little wind. I thought my tyres were a bit flat, so before today's run, I went round to a fellow cyclist and borrowed his foot pump, which has a manometer on it. Instead of the usual 7.5 bars on the front wheel and 8.5 on the back, mine registered a measly 2! It was if I had been running through treacle.

After pumping them up to the proper pressure, I was rolling. Not only did I have no difficulty in keeping up this evening, but I was even pulling at the front on occasion.

Walter Blotscher

Wednesday 30 May 2012

MEDIÆVAL QUEENS

The role of queens in the Middle Ages was ill-defined. On the one hand, although legal customs (eg the right to own property) varied from place to place, women were everywhere treated as second-class citizens. On the other, queens were the only people in the world guaranteed uninterrupted "face time" (to use a very un-mediæval expression) with kings, namely in the marital bed. True, this opportunity might only last until such time as the queen had produced a male heir. However, queens were often put in charge of their childrens' education; so if you could no longer influence the current ruler, then you might well be able to influence the next.

The uncertainty surrounding queens' status could thus be exploited by forceful women. One such was Eleanor of Aquitaine, who inherited the province from her father, and then proceeded to marry in succession the King of France, Louis VII (by whom she had only daughters) and the King of England, Henry II (by whom she had five sons and three daughters). Her influence over her sons was a constant thorn in Henry's side (see the film the Lion in Winter), and he had her imprisoned for supporting the revolt of the eldest. But she survived to become regent of England during Richard the Lionheart's time away on crusade, and lived to be more than 80, a remarkable age for the time. If Eleanor was an example of realpolitik, other queens obtained influence through religion. For example, Kunigunde of Luxemburg, the wife of the Holy Roman Emperor Henry II, was renowned for her piety, and was later made a saint by the Pope.

One thing everybody in the Middle Ages could agree on was that becoming a queen was by far the best career option for a girl. It was accordingly something that noble families tried very hard to exploit. The Habsburgs were good at it; but the winner's prize must surely go to Raymond Berenger V of Provence. A mere count in an era of emperors, kings and dukes, he had the misfortune to have four daughters and no sons. Yet the daughters married in turn King Louis IX of France, King Henry III of England, Henry's brother Richard (who became King of the Romans) and Louis' brother Charles (who became King of Sicily). They were fertile and lived long, thereby extending their influence into the next generation. And they used their position to secure titles and positions for their extended family, including an Archbishop of Canterbury and assorted bishops. An impressive example of social climbing. 

Walter Blotscher

Tuesday 29 May 2012

PILGRIMAGE (2)

Because I went on this year's walking tour just after Easter, I was able to go on my wife's pilgrimage this Whitsun weekend (hence no blogging for three days). 65km over three days, in baking hot sunshine. It was tough towards the end, since I got a rather large blister under my toe towards the evening of the second day; but I made it.

A couple of observations. First, there are a lot of churches in Denmark. We walked through many small villages and nearly all of them had a church. Plain, whitewashed walls, wooden pews, and few or no pictures; but surprisingly well kept, both inside and in the churchyard. Secondly, a large proportion of priests in Denmark are women, particularly young women. It would not surprise me if they became the majority in x years' time; which would be remarkable, if you take a long view of the history of the church. Thirdly, although the churches are well kept, there are many derelict houses in these villages, particularly former grocers' shops. People are moving to the big cities, and small shops can't compete with the supermarkets. It is not easy to think of a solution to this problem, but if something is not done, then some of these villages will become deserted.

Walter Blotscher

Monday 28 May 2012

GIRO D'ITALIA (4)

Ryder Hesjedal was the surprise winner of this year's Giro d'Italia, winning the pink jersey by 16 seconds from Joaquim Rodriguez (in a race of more than 3,000 km, that gap is not much more than 200 metres!). The lanky Canadian was in prime position after his Garmin-Barracuda team decisively won stage 4's team trial. And although Rodriguez is undoubtedly the better climber, Hesjedal was able to cling to his wheel throughout the mountain stages and go into the final stage time trial only 31 seconds down. A gap he easily made up and more, despite Rodriguez' riding the time trial of his life.

The result showed again how important teams are in cycling. I had bet on Ivan Basso because of his strong Liquigas team. But although they controlled many of the uphill stages, their Polish super domestique Silwester Szmyd didn't function, presumably because of illness. The Liquigas tactics were for Szmyd to set a gruelling pace up the last mountain, with Basso in tow; after burning off the other favourites, Basso would be left on his own to finish the job. However, without Szmyd, all the half dozen or so favourites came to the finale together, and Hejsedal could hang in there.

When I announced Basso as my pick, my younger son suggested Hejsedal, until now a relative unknown in the top ranks of world cycling (he is the first Canadian to win a Grand Tour, for instance). I thought Hejsedal would do well, but I didn't think he could win it. Hats off to my son's judgement.

Walter Blotscher

Friday 25 May 2012

COOKIES

Cookies are small data files, that allow websites to recognise and track users. They attach themselves to a visitor's computer, a bit like a limpet to a boat. Advertisers love them, since they allow adverts to be more precisely targeted to potential customers. They are one of the reasons why Facebook and Google have such enormous market valuations.

However, the use of cookies involves difficult issues of privacy, not least because many internet users are unaware, or perhaps only vaguely aware, that they are being tracked. In order to tackle these issues, the E.U. has introduced regulations which affect all European websites. The crucial element is that a website must notify a visitor what cookies are being placed on their machine. Today is the last working day in the U.K. before the new regulation takes effect.

The consensus seems to be that most websites will not be compliant come Monday. One reason is that it is unclear what is required in order to comply. The BBC, a big and popular website which I often look at, has solved the problem (from yesterday) by asking viewers for their consent via a pop-up. However, the BBC's website is both free and not trying to sell anything; companies which use them as a sales tool may well balk at raising an issue of which many, if not most, of their potential customers are ignorant.

Non-compliance can in theory lead to fines of up to £500,000. The question is whether this rather draconian option will be invoked "pour encourager les autres", or whether the authorities will go easy during an initial transition period. Given that the Government's own websites are unlikely to meet the deadline, I suspect the latter.

Walter Blotscher

Thursday 24 May 2012

WIND POWER

Denmark has long been in the forefront of wind power. And in the forefront of that forefront, so to speak, has been Vestas, still the world's biggest producer of power windmills. The company's charismatic boss, Ditlev Engel, has been a constant at world climate conferences, Davos, and similar meetings of the great and the good. Wind is good for the world, was the message.

Yet Vestas is in trouble. Roughly four years ago its market value was kr.130 billion; today it is just kr.7.7 billion. Part of that fall can be attributed to the financial crisis; but a large part is due to the company's own problems. It made an operating loss of kr.447 million in 2011, and a staggering kr.1.2 billion in the first quarter of 2012. That is despite having an order book worth some kr.75 billion.

There are three basic problems. First, wind power is still uneconomic when compared with that from other fuel sources, so orders are heavily dependent on subsidy regimes in different countries. Secondly, Danish production costs, particularly labour, are some of the highest in the world. Thirdly, what was once a technologically difficult product to make is no longer so, meaning that there is fierce competition from Chinese and Indian producers. The result is that sales are just not profitable.

Vestas is shedding expensive Danish jobs - fast - and trying to get a better grip on costs. But foreign investors who once thought that Mr. Engel walked on water are selling out in droves; the proportion of shares held by foreigners has fallen from 70% in 2008 to less than 50% today. Unless somthing radical happens, it would not surprise me if one of Denmark's flagship companies is gobbled up by a supposedly third world producer within the next five years.  

Walter Blotscher

Tuesday 22 May 2012

HAPPY CHAPPIES

International surveys regularly record that Denmark is the happiest country on earth, and the latest one, carried out on behalf of the U.N., did the same. But why?

The Scandinavian welfare model certainly helps. All four Nordic countries were in the top 10, as well as egalitarian societies such as the Netherlands and Canada. So too do riches. All of the top 10 countries were rich, whereas all of the bottom 10 were dirt poor, usually in Africa. Clearly if you have to struggle in order to survive, it is going to be difficult to be happy.

However, although Danes say that they are truly happy, is it true? I have to admit to having doubts. My wife, for instance, has a business helping troubled teenagers with their problems and insecurities; she doesn't seem to be short of clients. There also seem to be a lot of people going down with stress; the numbers receiving "førtidspensioner" (pensions given to people of working age, who are no longer able to work) have shot up during the past decade. And unemployment, particularly youth unemployment, has rocketed, though it is still lower than in other E.U. countries like Spain and Greece. Since the young tend, in general, to be more optimisitic than their more grizzled elders, this ought to be reflected in the figures.

Whatever the truth today, I predict that Denmark will not be top of the list in 10 years' time. Research has shown that happiness is closely correlated with economic performance. Since that is forecast to be modest, if not worse, expect more unhappy Danes in the future. 

Walter Blotscher

Monday 21 May 2012

NATO

Despite the protestations of unity at the recent Chicago summit, it is clear that NATO has problems.

In the old days NATO was supposed to keep the Russians out, the Americans in, and the Germans down. With the end of the Cold War, that rather simple formulation became no longer applicable, but the organisation has yet to agree on a new one. Basically, there are three competing philosophies amongst members.

The first group, consisting of the the Baltic States, Poland and possibly Norway, still worries about the Russian threat across (in some cases) the border. That threat seems to have increased recently, as President Putin talks tough and Ukraine starts sliding into the Russian sphere of influence. The second group, led by the U.S. and the U.K., wants NATO to be a force in international relations. Libya is the best example of this; Syria might yet become so. While the third group, led by France and Germany, wants NATO to be the building block for a more common European defence policy. A sort of military counterpart to the E.U. in economic matters.

These groups are not mutually exclusive; France was a prime mover on the Libyan operation, for instance (though Germany refused to take part). Nevertheless, it is difficult to see how the three different ideas can be moulded into a coherent whole. Missile shields and "smart defence", collaboration over equipment purchases and use, are operational activities, not a substitute for a strategy.

And looming over everything is the quagmire of Afghanistan. At the summit it was agreed by everybody that combat troops would be out by the end of 2014, and that the Afghans would start taking over operationally in the summer of 2013. But that was an easy decision (even if France is likely to spoil the party by pulling its troops out this year). The difficult one will be what (if anything) to do if everything goes pear-shaped in 2015. As I say, NATO has problems.

Walter Blotscher    

Sunday 20 May 2012

ICE HOCKEY (5)

The World ice hockey championships have just finished in Helsinki and Stockholm, the first time that they have been shared between two countries (they will also be shared next year, and in the same two places). Russia were a class above the rest this time, winning all seven of their preliminary games, plus the three in the knock-out stages. Their 6-2 victory tonight, coming back from letting in a shock goal after just over a minute, reflected their superiority. And in Yevgeni Malkin, they had the tournament's absolute best player; top scorer, best forward and MVP.

If Russia's victory was no surprise, their opponents in the final, Slovakia, were. Coming into the tournament, they were ranked tenth in the world and had just lost two warm-up games to Denmark. Yet they played out of their skins, coming back from 3-2 down to beat Canada in the quarter finals, and then sensationally beating big brother the Czech Republic 3-1 in the semi-final. Their muscular style was based on solid defence, with goalkeeper Jan Laco winning the best goalkeeper award and their huge back Zdeno Chara the best defenceman award.

I love ice hockey. You can quite easily watch a boring football match in which there are very few chances and no goals, but that's extremely rare in ice hockey. Things also happen very quickly, so the game is never over until it's over. The Czech Republic scored with 29 seconds left to beat Sweden in the quarter finals; Finland scored with 9 seconds left to beat the U.S. in theirs. I played field hockey at school, and was quite good at it, but it's not nearly as good as the frozen version. It's a pity I never really learned to skate.

Walter Blotscher

Saturday 19 May 2012

A LAZY DAY (2)

I was going to do lots of things today. But I think that that long cycle ride yesterday in my new kit rather took it out of me. So said plans were abandoned around lunchtime in favour of a couch potato sports day. I watched both ice hockey world championship semi-finals and the first mountain stage of the Giro, and am now watching the second half of the Champions League final on German TV (since I don't have Danish TV3).

I did spend a couple of hours trimming the edges of my lawn and I also rang my mum. But they weren't very strenuous activities.

Walter Blotscher

Friday 18 May 2012

JANE FONDA

I had forgotten what a great actress Jane Fonda is. I have just seen Klute, the 1971 film where she won one of her two Best Actress awards. Klute also starred a young, and rather gawky Donald Sutherland. A very good film.

Walter Blotscher

Thursday 17 May 2012

WORK AND HOLIDAYS

I said earlier that the Danish Government would like to get rid of Store Bededag as a public holiday, as a way of making everybody work a bit longer. It turns out that they are in fact thinking of getting rid of two.

Which makes their attitude to tomorrow rather bizarre. Today is Ascension Day, which is a public holiday in Denmark. Tomorrow, a Friday, is in principle a normal working day; though people can take a day's holiday, if they want to have a 4-day weekend. What is bizarre is that although it is a normal working day, all Government offices and institutions, including kindergartens, will be closed. So too will the banks. And if access to officialdom, finance and childcare are all ruled out, it is highly likely that a lot of businesses and other organisations will decide to close, since their workers will take time off. Particularly since the weather tomorrow is supposed to be sunny.

Is this an example of the Government's giving out mixed messages?

Walter Blotscher

Wednesday 16 May 2012

RHUBARB

I love rhubarb, for two reasons. The first is eating it. My mother-in-law made rhubarb porridge with cream last night, in honour of my son, who is home from Basel at the moment. It was delicious.

The second is that it is incredibly easy to grow. Basically it is a big weed; and as with all weeds, left to its own devices it will get bigger and bigger. The half plant that I planted in the kitchen garden recently has already adapted to its new environment and is busy sprouting new leaves. There should be lots of rhubarb for a crumble when my mother comes to visit at the end of June.

Walter Blotscher

Tuesday 15 May 2012

LESSONS FROM JAPAN

We are now four to five years into this financial crisis. The effects are different in different countries, but one thing is the same; according to politicians, the recovery is "just around the corner". The corner may be one year, two years, five years perhaps; but definitely within the foreseeable future.

I am not so sure. My reason for scepticism, if not worry, is Japan. Japan had its own property and financial bubbles during the late 1980's. They were reflected in golf club memberships changing hands for millions of dollars, and valuations which said that property in Tokyo was worth more than in the whole of the United States. When the bubble burst, there was a series of failed banks, crashing values, zombie companies (those kept alive, since going bust would be more expensive), and similar things. Pretty much like Europe and the U.S. today.

The problem is that Japan has still not turned the corner. To take but one example, the Nikkei 225 average, the country's most widely watched stock market index, still stands at only a fraction of its value in 1990. The country is ageing fast and its population is shrinking. And that is before tsunamis and nuclear problems are taken into account.

The politicians would say that things are going to be different in Europe and the U.S. But why?

Walter Blotscher

Sunday 13 May 2012

THE PREMIER LEAGUE

Well, that was one of the most exciting finishes to a football championship for some time. After dominating for most of the season, Manchester City suddenly fell apart, letting their cross-town rivals Manchester United build up an 8-point lead. Then United themselves fell apart, losing a match they should have won, drawing another 4-4 when they were 4-2 up, and then losing 1-0 to City. Going into today's last matches of the season, the two clubs had the same number of points, but City had the much better goal difference. So all they had to do was win, in order to take the title for the first time since 1968.

That task looked to be easy, given that their home record this year had been 17 wins and a draw, and that their opponents were Queen's Park Rangers, who were in danger of being relegated. When my son and I tuned in for the second half, City were 1-0 up and looked to be cruising. Then they made a couple of defensive mistakes, and suddenly QPR were up 2-1 with 25 minutes to go. Despite losing Joey Barton to a red card, QPR packed their defence, their goalie played an absolute blinder, and City couldn't get through. After ninety minutes, it was still 2-1; City needed to score twice in the five minutes of extra time.

Amazingly, they did so. Fans who looked gutted minutes beforehand erupted in joy, and there was a pitch invasion when the final whistle went.

Being a Manchester City fan has not been easy the past 40 years, as they have not won very much, while Manchester United have won a slough of championships and trophies. True, this year's victory has required a vast amount of money, pumped in by Middle East billionaires and Etihad; but that is true for all of the major football clubs these days. Over the season as a whole, City undoubtedly played the best football, and deserved the title. Even if it was by a whisker.

Walter Blotscher

Saturday 12 May 2012

GAY MARRIAGE (2)

It seems that the forthcoming U.S. Presidential election is likely to be dominated by the issue of whether homosexuals can get married. After sitting on the fence - officially, at  least - for a long time, President Obama has come out in favour; though he still believes that each state should decide, and most of them have already decided against. His likely challenger Mitt Romney, on the other hand, thinks that marriage is, and can only be, between a man and a woman.

I will state my view on this upfront; gay men and women should be allowed to marry someone of the same sex, if they want to. I say this for two reasons. First, as a liberal principle; what is available to one section of society should be available to all. Secondly, because allowing gay people to marry doesn't harm me in any way, even if I were to think that marriage should be between a man and a woman.

It is the second reason that seems to get people in the U.S. hot under the collar. Religious conservatives are not content with being able to marry who they want, and to have (and profess) their own beliefs. They have to take those beliefs and then make life miserable for people whom they disagree with. It is the mark of the religious bigot throughout the ages, and is both unattractive and - in the long run- dangerous.

Walter Blotscher

Friday 11 May 2012

PUBLIC SERVICES

Everybody knows that Denmark has a highly developed public sector, which provides one of the best levels of welfare in the world. Sometimes it is surprising just how developed it is.

Handicapped people are well looked after here. Many are able to live in their own apartment, with help from a visiting professional. One of the tasks earmarked for that professional was to help the handicapped person arrange their sex life, most often by using a prostitute. According to the Social Ministry's 2001 official circular, employees were supposed to arrange visits to/from a prostitute if requested, and if necessary to go with the handicapped person to the rendezvous.

Unfortunately - for some handicapped people, at least - the circular has just been changed. What used to be a duty is now merely a recommendation that the employee may refuse to comply with. It remains to be seen whether they will; but handicap organisations are worried about the change.

I don't have a particular view about the change. But I do think it is remarkable, in a positive way, that at a time when the words crisis, money and savings are on everybody's lips, some people are still thinking about the quality of life, rather than its quantity.

Walter Blotscher

Thursday 10 May 2012

THE NEWS OF THE WORLD (3)

The News of the World may be gone as a newspaper, but the ripples from its sinking are lapping around the pond of 10, Downing Street. The reason is the inquiry under Lord Justice Leveson into the culture, practice and ethics of the British press. Although the inquiry was set up by Prime Minister David Cameron, it carries risks for him, as a series of witnesses take the stand.

Today it was the turn of Andy Coulson. Mr. Coulson was the editor of the News of the World, who resigned in January 2007 after its royal reporter was jailed for phone hacking. Four months later, he was hired by Mr. Cameron, then the leader of the opposition, to become his director of communications. He continued that job in Government after the 2010 election, but resigned in January 2011 when the phone hacking scandal was dominating the news.

Although Mr. Coulson did not provide a "smoking gun", he did let slip that he had failed to disclose that he owned £40,000 worth of shares in News Corporation (the News of the World's parent company) while working for the Government. Having been a civil servant myself, I find that surprising, to say the least. However, what is even more surprising is that apparently, nobody saw fit to ask him. Nor did they probe him on his assertion that he knew nothing, when the phone hacking saga came to dominate the newspapers. That in turn suggests a carelessness within the Prime Minister's support staff.

Mr. Coulson's appearance is the start of a series of heavyweight figures, who will appear before the inquiry. They include Mr. Cameron's two predecessors, Gordon Brown and Tony Blair. But the most dangerous witness, due tomorrow, may well be former editor of the News of the World and CEO of News International Rebekah Brooks, who counts Mr. Cameron as a personal friend.

Walter Blotscher

Tuesday 8 May 2012

GREECE (7)

In my last post on Greece, I said that the crucial question for rich countries is whether taxpayers are willing to accept the large, and ongoing, transfer of financial risk from the private to the public sector. In the case of Greece, the answer to that question is a resounding no. For if there is one clear message from Sunday's general election, it is that Greeks are fed up with austerity.

When the most recent rescue package was negotiated, the powers in the E.U. and IMF got the two major parties, the socialist Pasok and the conservative New Democracy, to commit to implement it, if and when they got into power. Unfortunately, they together got only 149 seats in the 300 seat Parliament, despite a quirk in the electoral law that gives an extra 50 seats to the biggest party (in this case New Democracy). Both votes and seats migrated away from the traditional parties to the extremes, unreconstructed left-wingers and rather nasty, anti-immigrant right-wingers. There will now follow a period of horse-trading within Greece in order to try and form some sort of coalition; if that succeeds, there will then be a period of brinkmanship as the resulting Government tries to renegotiate the terms of its deal with its European partners.

Personally, I don't believe that either scenario will come to fruition. The sad fact is that Greece is caught between a rock and a hard place at the moment. Much more likely in my view is new elections, in which, having let off steam, the Greeks sullenly accept reality and give Pasok/ND a narrow Parliamentary majority which they can use to inflict more pain.

Walter Blotscher 

Monday 7 May 2012

GIRO D'ITALIA (3)

This year's Giro started on Saturday. Not in Italy, however, but in Herning, which is in the middle of Jutland. The Grand Tours have a recent tradition of starting in, or visiting, a neighbouring country (this is the sixth time that the Giro has started outside Italy); but it is the first time that it has been so far away from the homeland, and the first time that it has been in Denmark.

There was a time trial prologue on Saturday, a flat stage around Herning on Sunday, and another flat stage around Horsens today. Tonight the teams flew off to Italy, where there will be a rest day tomorrow before the team time trial in Verona on Wednesday. The first clues to the overall winner should come later this weekend, with a couple of "lumpy" stages in the south.

The decision to come to Denmark has been justified by good weather (albeit not by Italian standards) and large crowds. It has been estimated that up to 250,000 lined the roads on Sunday, which is pretty good. The only cloud on the horizon was the death on Sunday of Horsens' mayor, who has been the primus motor in getting the Giro to come here. Aged 56 and a keen sportsman, he had a heart attack during an amateur cycle race the day before the Horsens stage, at which he would have presided.

With Alberto Contador banned and a number of riders staying away in order to concentrate on the Tour de France, this year's Giro is the most open for years. There could well be a first-time winner, but I have a sneaking suspicion that Ivan Basso, winner in both 2010 and 2006, could make it a hattrick, not least because of his strong Liquigas team. He's my tip.

Walter Blotscher

Sunday 6 May 2012

THE RESILIENCE OF TREES (2)

My resilient apple tree is finally coming round. There are blooms on all of the branches, as you can see below. I may even get apples in the autumn.




Walter Blotscher

Saturday 5 May 2012

ELECTED MAYORS

One of the features of the British political landscape which is in sharp contrast to the Danish is the fact that the U.K. is highly centralised. Local authorities have, in reality, very little power. Since the abolition of the rates (property taxes) under Margaret Thatcher, nearly all public revenues are collected by central Government; and although councils can spend money, a lot of it is subject to controls of one sort or another from Whitehall. Meanwhile councillors are not paid, but can only collect expenses, meaning that it is difficult to attract talent. In Denmark, on the other hand, kommuner can (and do) set income tax rates, which vary across the country, the mayorship is a full-time job (and is paid accordingly), and decisions about local schools, roads and old people's homes are taken locally and financed accordingly.

Nowhere is this difference more apparent than in London, which has roughly as many people as the whole of Denmark. At least London has a paid mayor (Boris Johnson, reelected this week, thereby bucking an anti-coalition trend in local election results). But his powers are limited to not much more than transport and the bully pulpit. He is more an ambassador for the city - although quite a good one - than a real mayor.

Egged on by the Liberal Democrats, historically the champions of localism, David Cameron has shown an admirable willingness to do something about this problem. The starting point, admittedly a modest one, was a series of referenda this week on whether major towns outside London should follow the capital's example and have elected mayors. Unfortunately for localism, nine of the ten cities voting said no, with only Bristol saying yes. The naysayers included big regional cities such as Manchester, Newcastle, Sheffield and Leeds.

Voter turnout was very low, so it is difficult to know exactly what conclusion to draw from this. Perhaps the most realistic one is that British voters are fed up with politicians in general; elected mayors would mean more professional politicians, which would be a bad thing, ergo we should say no. Given the dismal state of national politics, I can understand that feeling. Nevertheless, I also think it is a missed opportunity. London can't - and shouldn't - run everything; and as politics becomes less ideological and more managerial, it is important for local problems to be sorted out locally. After all, David Cameron may well be a clever chap, but he will never have enough knowledge to be able to make the buses run on time in Salford. 

Walter Blotscher

Friday 4 May 2012

STORE BEDEDAG (2)

Today is Store Bededag ("Big Prayer Day") in Denmark again. I didn't do much praying, in fact I didn't do very much at all. I had a cycle ride at some point, did some tidying up, and watched the start of the ice hockey world championships.Then I got my daughter to cut my hair in between watching the four episodes of Downton Abbey that I had missed owing to my recent walking tour and trip to Basel. Oh, and I had a couple of the delicious cup cakes that she had made in honour of her boyfriend's birthday.

Store Bededag has been much in the news of late, since the rumour is that the Government wants to abolish it. Not completely; but they are thinking of moving it to a Sunday, which would allow everybody to work an extra day on the Friday they now get off. Getting Danes to work longer is one of the Government's perennial themes, and tripartite discussions on this point between employers, unions and politicians are due to start this summer. The problem though is that Danes show absolutely no inclination to want to work more than they already do, no matter how much of an incentive they are given, what they want is less stress and more leisure time.

Recognising this, moving Store Bededag to a Sunday would in fact be quite a smart political move. Any normal tripartite agreement could easily be voted down by stroppy workers. But changes to public holidays require Parliamentary legislation, which the Government is better able to control. At least Ministers pray that they do.

Walter Blotscher  

Thursday 3 May 2012

CYCLING (2)

The hot weather that we had in Basel had worked its way up to Denmark, so today I was ready for my first cycle ride of the year. I have done quite a lot of cycling around town since 1 January, but this was the real thing. I cleaned my bike, put on new back brakes, and oiled the chain and gears. Then I put on my cycling kit and did a leisurely 30km, with no serious hills.

There is nothing like pedalling on small country roads under a hot sun, with very little wind. When I got back, I found that I was down to 76.8 kg, a good starting point for the summer season. Now all I need to do is get some kilometers under my belt.

Walter Blotscher

Wednesday 2 May 2012

DENMARK AND WW2

Forget Iron Lady or Mission Impossible 4, the Danish film hit of the year is undoubtedly Hvidsten Gruppen ("the Whitestone Group"), the true story of a WW2 resistance group based around the Hvidsten Inn in Jutland. The group hid weapons and agents parachuted in by the British, but they were caught when one of the agents was arrested by the Germans in Copenhagen and revealed all. Eight Danes, three from the family that ran the inn, were shot.

Readers of this blog will know from an earlier post that Denmark's relationship with Germany has long been a tricky one; and the period of occupation from 1940-45 the trickiest part of it. As a foreigner, it has always seemed as if the time was something that Danes would rather not talk about. Yet the success of the film suggests that there is huge interest in it. As of last week, it had been seen in the cinema by roughly 700,000 people, getting on for 15% of the population.

For us at the local cinema, it has been a great success, playing to full houses every night. I showed the film to 114 pensioners last Tuesday morning, and we had to turn people away. Normally, when the credits come up at the end, some people stand up and begin to leave; this time, nobody moved until the screen went completely dark.

We have had Flammen og Citronen and Hvidsten Gruppen, two films about resistance fighters. Now all that is needed is a film about the Danes that collaborated with the Germans, of which there were more than a few. That would be the most difficult of all, but probably necessary, if there is to be real closure.

Walter Blotscher

Tuesday 1 May 2012

BASEL

I have just come back from a long weekend, visiting my younger son in Basel. He has been there for the past year, playing handball for the local team, RTV 1879, with time off to join the Great Britain Olympic squad for training camps.

Basel is located on the Rhine in the northwest corner of Switzerland, where it meets France and Germany. Although there are more than 800,000 people in the urban area, most of them live in the suburbs over the borders, where it is cheaper, and commute to work. Basel itself has only about 170,000 inhabitants, which gives it the feel of a "small" big city. That feeling is enhanced by a brilliantly efficient and highly integrated transport system, with trams in the city centre (I am a great fan of tram cities). Basel airport is actually in France, but that doesn't matter, since there is a little corridor, which pokes out from the town to the airport in order to allow for a bus connection. Five minutes through customs, fifteen minutes on the bus, and you are in the heart of the city. Switzerland is part of the Schengen agreements, so there is no passport control, coming from Denmark.

One advantage of Switzerland's traditional neutrality is that there are lots of well-preserved old buildings in the major cities, such as the gate below, which originally formed part of the mediæval walls. Much of Basel's centre is closed to traffic (other than trams), and there are beautiful town houses dating from the Middle Ages. I remember the cathedral, set high on a bluff overlooking the river, from 35 years ago, when I visited as a 17-year old, backpacking around Europe on an interrail ticket. But the best building must be the newly restored town hall, resplendent in red and reflecting the solid civic virtues of an independent city state.


On Saturday, we took the bus to Zürich, where my son's team was playing an all-or-nothing game against Stäfa, a small town on the lake. A win or a draw, and Basel would stay in the top division of the Swiss league and the season would be over; a loss, and they would have to go into a relegation play-off with three other teams. On a baking hot afternoon, and in a cauldron atmosphere, Stäfa quickly built up a 3-goal lead, which they had extended to five with 12 minutes left to play. Then Basel started to string things together, the opponents' goalkeeper stopped saving everything, and Basel eventually equalised to make it 28-28 with 21 seconds on the clock. Stäfa took off their goalkeeper to create an extra man, but in the confusion they sent on two extra players instead of one, which is not allowed. So Basel got the ball back with three seconds to go and that was that. Because of the game's importance, my son didn't get any playing time (he is the reserve goalkeeper, and the number one plays for the Swiss national team), but he had predicted that, so I wasn't too disappointed. There was a lot of beer and sausages and schlager music on the bus on the way home, which continued at a nightclub long after midnight. I left them to it.

On the Sunday, my son and I and his hangover took a train and bus into the hills outside Basel and did some walking. Starting at a height of around 450 metres, we did a fairly stiff climb up to Passwang, at 1,204 metres the highest point in the canton of Basel, which gave fantastic views of the serious Alps to the south. We were fortified along the way by fresh apple juice, a barrel of which had been left for sale by a farmer at the bottom; and by goulash soup at one of those alpine restaurants just below the summit. After admiring the views, we hiked down the other side, caught the bus down the valley and the train back into Basel. We had coffee and cake at the main railway station, while watching FC Basel clinch the Swiss football championship for the third year in a row on a big screen television. The city centre was closed that evening as fans took over the streets to celebrate; we made do with a doner kebab over the river in Basel's surprisingly large immigrant quarter.

One other nice touch to the weekend. On the bus to Stäfa, we passed through Habsburg, the village from which the family took its name. It was a moment for historical reflection, as we sped through the tunnel under the castle at 100km/h.

Walter Blotscher